Portugal | Madeira in 6 days

Before you leave

Book permits for the numbered (PR) hikes — they are now paid, and booked for a specific day and time slot on the official Madeira hiking website
Rain jacket and shoes with good grip — trails, levadas and forests are muddy and slick almost everywhere on the island
Warm layers, a hat and gloves for the mountain hikes — it was below freezing at Pico do Arieiro and Pico Ruivo in December
Water and snacks for Day 1 — we didn’t pass any restaurants on the way
Reserve dinners ahead where needed — Sabor de India and Thai Funchal both require a reservation
Leave the drone at home, or keep it grounded on windy days on the north coast
Leave time to clean the rental car’s floor mats before you return it

Day 1 — Pico do Arieiro and the Balcões levada

Early arrival to Madeira from Lisbon in the morning.

The sky glowing orange at sunrise above a layer of clouds, seen through an aeroplane window.

Sunrise over Madeira.

Pick up the rental car from the airport.
Drive to the Pico do Arieiro hike, about 40 minutes up windy mountain roads from the airport.

Worn stone steps in the foreground, with jagged green mountains and clouds lifting off the peaks beyond.

Fog lifting during our hike on PR1.

One of us in a woolly hat holding the cable railing on a narrow stone path that winds along a red-earth ridge.

The Pico do Arieiro hike.

Hikers on a cobbled path along the cliffside, with a cable railing and the white observatory dome on the summit behind.

Making our way back to the car.

This hike is extremely popular at sunrise. We decided to do it in the full light of day instead: the roads are safer to drive in daylight, the hike is safer in daylight, and there is less chance of the view being foggy.

A paved path running along a narrow ridge towards a craggy peak, with tiny hikers spread out along it.

The life-changing hike — PR1.

Hike from the trailhead to the Ninho da Manta viewpoint. This is about 1.6 miles with about 840 feet of elevation gain. The trail follows a narrow ridge at times, with spectacular views and drop-offs on both sides. The only way to describe the views on this hike is life-changing. This is easily one of the best hikes anywhere in the world.

Sheer green and rust-coloured cliffs and pinnacles, with fog drifting through the valleys behind.

The Ninho da Manta viewpoint.

Optional: With more time and good weather, this hike can be made much longer by hiking all the way to Pico Ruivo, then arranging transport back to this parking lot. Several tour companies offer pick-up and drop-off for this hike. Going as far as the Stairway to Heaven before turning back is an option as well. Pico Ruivo can also be done as a separate stop on this itinerary (see Day 4).

The trail climbing a red-earth ridge towards rocky green summits under a blue sky.

The ridge on PR1.

Walk up the stairs from the restroom area to the observatory for more views.
Some more viewpoints nearby: Miradouro do Tarm and Miradouro do Juncal.
Tip: Carry water and snacks for this day, as we didn’t pass any restaurants on the way.
Next, drive about 20 minutes to the Levada dos Balcões (PR11), a 1.8-mile easy-to-moderate walk to the Miradouro dos Balcões viewpoint. It is a flat walk of 20–30 minutes to a gorgeous view. The trail can get slick with mud after rain. Parking is tricky here — we parked on the side of the road along with other cars.

His dad smiling in a padded jacket and beanie on the path between two tall, mossy rock walls beside the levada channel.

The levada walk passes between rocky walls.

A deep green valley with forested peaks, opening out to the sea in the distance.

The view from the Levada dos Balcões.

Optional: Miradouro do Cabouco, a short drive up the road.
Drive back to the accommodation in Funchal.
For dinner, we recommend India Gate in the old town of Funchal. Parking is not readily available in this part of town, so walk if you can, or take an Uber or Lyft to keep things easier.

Day 2 — The southwest coast

Have breakfast at the accommodation or a café.
Drive about an hour to Achadas da Cruz, a village at the bottom of a steep cliff, reached by one of the steepest cable cars in the world or by a scary, challenging trail. There is a parking lot, a small café and restrooms at the cable car ticket office at the top. Buy tickets in the office and take the cable car down to the beach and village. The line can be more than an hour long in peak season.

One of us in a grey beanie looking out of the cable car window at the cliff face and the sea far below.

In the cable car down to Achadas da Cruz.

A towering green cliff dropping to a dark pebble beach and blue sea.

The gorgeous village of Achadas da Cruz.

Once at the bottom, explore the beach, the village paths, the views and the coastal walk at a leisurely pace. Grab some food at the café at the top of the cliff.

A paved path running along the shore below enormous cliffs, past tall dry grasses and a few small buildings.

Towards the end of the village.

Two of us sitting on a wooden bench on the seafront path, looking out at the waves breaking over black rocks.

Looking out towards the ocean.

Drive to the Miradouro da Garganta Funda waterfall. There is a rough parking area. Walk about 10 minutes to the viewpoint to see a tall waterfall plunge into the ocean off the side of a lush cliff. The trail can be muddy when wet, and there is no shade.

His dad smiling at the railing, with a thin waterfall dropping down a green terraced gorge behind him.

The view of the waterfall.

Optional: Add the Risco waterfall on the Levada do Risco (PR6.1). This trail offers beautiful views even if you only walk part of it. The parking lot can get very busy.
Hike the Levada do Moinho in Ponta do Sol. Parking is available near the trailhead, or park on the street in town. Follow the levada for incredible views in every direction — the mountains to the east and the ocean to the west.

A rainbow arching over a steep, terraced green valley, with white houses on the ridge.

A rainbow over the Levada do Moinho hike.

A narrow path beside the levada channel, with a railing, lush plants and the sea shining in the distance.

The view towards the ocean.

Visit Cascata dos Anjos, a famous waterfall spilling onto a road (now closed to cars) before tumbling down a cliff into the ocean. Bring a rain jacket if you intend to walk under it. Park on the street before the traffic gets intense, close to the waterfall, and walk up to the spot.

Two of us with arms outstretched on a wet road, where water pours off the cliff above and sprays over the edge towards the sea.

Cascata dos Anjos.

Finish in Ponta do Sol — the town, the beach, and a short walk up to a viewpoint past the tunnel. Parking can be challenging in this town. There are some restaurants and grocery shops here as well.

A dirt path running along a vegetated cliff above the sea, with the coastline stretching away into the distance.

Ponta do Sol — the walk from the end of town, past the beach.

Day 3 — The north and northwest

Begin the day by driving to Capelinha de Nossa Senhora de Fátima, a chapel on a hill near São Vicente. Park on the small street behind the chapel and take the stairs up to a grand, 360-degree view of the surrounding area, all the way down to the ocean.

A misty green valley dotted with houses and terraces, with a road winding along the valley floor below the mountains.

The view from the stairs up to the chapel.

Three of us bundled up in warm jackets at the top of the steps, next to the white chapel’s clock tower, with the valley behind.

The chapel and the surrounding valleys.

The town of São Vicente spread across the valley floor between two steep green mountainsides, opening to the sea.

The view towards the ocean and São Vicente.

Optional: Drive through the town of São Vicente.
Drive to the Miradouro do Véu da Noiva, about 10 minutes away. Here a gorgeous waterfall tumbles over a tall, lush cliff directly into the ocean. The viewpoint is planted with tropical flowers like birds of paradise, which make the photos even more colorful. There are a few souvenir shops and cafés by the parking lot.

A thin waterfall falling down a green sea cliff into the waves, with orange bird-of-paradise flowers in the foreground.

Miradouro do Véu da Noiva.

Next, drive through the extremely narrow streets of Seixal to Seixal’s Praia do Porto. Park in one of the public lots near the beach. From here you can reach both the black-sand beach and the Piscinas Naturais do Seixal — natural swimming pools formed by volcanic rock next to the ocean.

His dad with arms raised on the wide black-sand beach, with surfers in the waves and green cliffs behind.

Seixal beach.

A calm, clear pool enclosed by dark volcanic rock, with the open sea beyond.

Seixal’s natural pools.

Stop for a snack at one of the snack bars with gorgeous views in Seixal. They serve veggie burgers, sandwiches and Portuguese garlic bread.

Red-roofed houses of Seixal stepping down to the sea, with steep green cliffs and the coastline beyond.

The view from the snack bar.

Drive to the Miradouro da Ribeira da Janela and the beach, Praia da Ribeira da Janela, near the town of Porto Moniz. From a large parking lot, follow the walkway to an elevated viewing area over the sharp volcanic rocks rising out of the rough sea. Then walk over to the beach, covered in large boulders and smaller rocks, and enjoy the breeze and the scenery.

Our son sitting on smooth grey boulders, with tall, jagged sea stacks rising out of the ocean behind him.

The view from the rocky beach.

Two dark sea stacks with waves crashing around their bases, under a blue sky with clouds.

Probably the last thing the drone saw…

Optional: If time permits, Porto Moniz has beautiful rock pools, natural swimming pools by the ocean and coastline to add to the day.
The next stop takes you up on the cliffs to see the same coast from further away. Drive up the winding roads to the Miradouro da Eira da Achada. The parking lot has restrooms. A swing at this viewpoint makes for an interesting perspective in photos.

Steep, forested green cliffs falling to a long coastline, with a small town at the water’s edge in the distance.

Miradouro da Eira da Achada.

Two of us on wooden swings under an “I love Ribeira da Janela” sign, facing the mountains and the sea.

The swings at the viewpoint.

From here, drive to the Fanal Forest. In Google Maps, search for “Lagoa do Fanal”, “Fanal parking” or “Fanal Forest” — the location should be a parking lot. There are paid, national-park-style restrooms. The walkway leads to the open areas of the forest, where you can wander around.

Gnarled, wind-shaped trees on a grassy hillside in thick fog, with a few cows grazing.

Fog and cows in the Fanal Forest.

His dad leaning against the huge, moss-covered trunk of an ancient laurel tree.

The Fanal Forest and its interesting trees.

Two small figures standing in a wide grassy clearing among twisted laurel trees, with fog behind.

The Fanal Forest.

Drive to the Cabo Girão skywalk. Park along the street or in the parking lot. There is a €3 per person fee to enter and enjoy the view from the skywalk. The view is amazing, but this spot is pretty touristy.

Looking straight down a sheer sea cliff to terraced fields and the deep blue ocean, with Funchal spread along the coast.

The view from the skywalk.

Pick up dinner from a café or pizza place near the accommodation, to add some rest time to the day.

Day 4 — Central, north and east

Begin with breakfast at the accommodation.
Drive to Pico Ruivo (PR1.2) and hike 0.9 miles to the alpine hut. Parking can be challenging at the Achada do Teixeira lot, though with the current time-slot reservation system, traffic may be lighter. The café at the hut is cozy and has great food for lunch and snacks.

Two of us in warm jackets standing on the stone trail, with the hillside behind disappearing into thick fog.

Thick fog at Pico Ruivo.

Drive to the Aguage Waterfall (known locally as Cascata da Aguage). This small waterfall in a tiny village offers a glimpse of local village life. The short trail is overgrown with orchids, hydrangeas and beautiful local flora. It is quiet, and you can make it a longer hike by continuing past the waterfall.

Two of us arm in arm in front of a tall waterfall pouring into a pool in the forest.

The waterfall.

Spikes of small red flowers among glossy green leaves.

Unusual flowers on the hike.

Next, drive to the town of Santana, with its cute downtown. Public parking lots are a short walk from downtown.
Have lunch at a restaurant downtown.
Walk around the Santana houses to see a building style popular in this area. The bright colors and steep, thatched roofs make for great photos.

A traditional triangular Santana house with a thatched roof, red door and blue trim, and a sign reading “Casa das Flores”.

A Santana house.

Our son in sunglasses beside a big pink hydrangea, with the sea in the distance.

Beautiful hydrangeas on the walk around the Santana houses.

Two of us in front of two thatched Santana houses with red doors, under a blue sky.

More of the Santana houses.

After lunch, drive to the Miradouro do Guindaste. This viewpoint has a glass platform built out over the crashing waves, surrounded by lush, rugged mountains — a great spot for photos. A short walk to the right of the viewpoint gives you a different perspective of the landscape from a slightly higher point.

Five of us standing on the glass platform, with the sea and green mountains behind.

Miradouro do Guindaste.

His dad sitting on a rock beside a dirt path, with a huge green headland and the sea behind him.

The view from the walk around the corner.

Moving on towards São Lourenço, stop at the Miradouro da Ponta do Rosto. This viewpoint gives you great views of the São Lourenço peninsula without much walking. Ice cream and snack food trucks are sometimes in the parking lot.

Red and brown sea cliffs and rock stacks rising from a grey sea.

The view from the Miradouro da Ponta do Rosto.

His dad leaning on the railing, with red cliffs and rocks in the sea behind him.

An amazing view from the area behind the railing.

The next hike is one of the most popular in Madeira: the Vereda da Ponta de São Lourenço (PR8). It requires a reservation on the official Madeira hiking website. Enjoy sweeping views of the coastline, and bright red hills covered in lush green grass, from many different angles on this must-do hike. It is 4–6 miles depending on the route you choose. Part of the trail has boardwalks, which help in muddy conditions, though some sections stay muddy and wet. Many small side trails branch off the main trail for more views.

His dad walking away down a stone path with a railing, across green hills towards red cliffs.

The beginning of the trail.

A pebble beach at the foot of layered brown cliffs, curving round a calm blue bay.

The beach. Boats sometimes offer trips back from here.

Waves breaking against dark rocks below tall red and green cliffs.

The view towards the ocean from the trail.

One of us sitting on a rock, looking out over a calm blue bay to a headland with a natural arch.

Looking out at the gorgeous view.

Our son climbing rough stone steps up a grassy hillside on the trail.

A mud and stone trail across the side of the hill.

Optional: Skip Pico Ruivo on this day. Instead, begin at the Miradouro de São Cristóvão and enjoy the views of green mountains ending in the bright blue ocean. Next, drive to the Miradouro do Arco de São Jorge and visit the town of São Jorge. Hike the Levada do Rei (PR18) in this area before heading to Santana, then follow the rest of the day as time allows.
For dinner, we recommend Sabor de India. We enjoyed the comforting food after a long day of hiking. A reservation is required.
Tip: For aviation enthusiasts, Madeira’s airport is famous for its dramatic terrain, high winds that call for special maneuvers, and its specially built runway. Our son insisted on adding plane spotting to our itinerary. We found the spot on Google Maps as “Madeira airport spotting”. Driving up a bit from there and turning onto a slightly elevated street gave us an excellent view of the runway. It is next to a gas station, across the street from the chain-link fence around the airport. Several people were there with large cameras with the same idea. Check which times of day have more landings and takeoffs to make it worthwhile. We stayed about 45 minutes, until the last evening flight had left, before heading back to the accommodation.

A red and white plane on the runway, with the ocean beyond and a chain-link fence in the foreground.

Plane spotting at Madeira airport.

Day 5 — Funchal

Drive to Funchal city center and park in the public parking garage near the cable car station.
Buy tickets and line up for the cable car up to the Monte neighborhood.

Funchal’s white houses and red roofs spreading down the hillside to the harbor, seen from the cable car.

The view from the cable car to Monte.

Walk a little way up the hill to the Monte Palace Gardens. These are reached on foot from the cable car station in Monte — there is no need to take another cable car. The garden you reach by an additional cable car ride is not the Monte Palace Garden.

Our son sitting on a stone bench next to a large carved stone urn, among tropical trees.

Views around the garden.

Two of us standing under a red Japanese gate, beside red railings and a stone lantern.

In the Japanese garden.

Buy tickets at the counter and enter the gardens. Set high above Funchal, the atmosphere here feels more tropical and misty. The gardens are laid out on multiple winding levels of architecture, greenery and beautiful tile work, all woven together to give a glimpse into the history and art of Portugal. The Japanese gardens have painted red bridges, tiled roofs and koi ponds. The Portuguese gardens are lined with azulejos — blue tiles.

A large ornate panel of blue and white azulejo tiles among ferns, with pink flamingos standing in the pond in front.

In the Portuguese-style gardens, with azulejos.

A waterfall spilling from an arched stone wall into a large pond, with red poinsettias along the edge.

The water gardens, all the way at the base of the garden.

My parents seated in an open, vintage-style cart under a shelter, ready for the ride back up.

My parents took a ride back up the winding path to the exit.

From here, the best-known way back down into Funchal is the famous toboggans of Monte. A return trip on the cable car works as well.

A cable car gondola heading down over green hills towards the sea, seen past a cable car pylon.

Taking the cable car back down.

For lunch, we recommend Noodle King in Funchal, a walk from the cable car station. It was full of locals and had good vegetarian options.
After lunch, walk over to Rua Dr. Fernão de Ornelas, one of Funchal’s bustling, pedestrian-friendly shopping streets, with interesting local and international brands.
Tip: Check out the pharmacies for beauty products.

A narrow cobbled street between cream-colored buildings with green shutters.

The streets of Funchal.

Visit Fábrica Santo António. This famous cookie shop offers samples and has a wide variety of incredible, delicious flavors. They make great souvenirs.

The white facade of Fábrica Santo António with its red painted sign, “Est. 1893, Funchal – Madeira”.

The best cookies in Portugal!

Walk over to the Mercado dos Lavradores, the famous market. It gives you a glimpse of the huge variety of local flowers, fruits, vegetables and Portuguese ingredients.

A market stall piled high with tropical fruit in wicker baskets, under Christmas garlands.

Mercado dos Lavradores.

Tip: If you’re buying fruit and vegetables, the stalls on the top level towards the back may have better prices. The stalls on the lower level, close to the entrance, are usually more expensive and geared towards tourists.

A bunch of pale yellow orchids in a cardboard box at the market.

Orchids at the Mercado dos Lavradores.

Tip: Try the different varieties of banana. They are grown locally in Madeira and are especially delicious.
Visit Rua de Santa Maria, one of the main streets of old town Funchal, with beautiful old-world architecture and the famous painted doors. The restaurants lining this street are too touristy — there is better food a short walk away.

Two of us walking arm in arm along a busy shopping street with black and white patterned pavement.

Shopping in the city.

For dinner, we went to Thai Funchal. We enjoyed having a different cuisine in Funchal. The vegetarian options were limited, but we had a decent meal. A reservation is required.

Day 6 — The Valley of the Nuns and departure

After breakfast, drive to the Miradouro da Eira do Serrado, above the Valley of the Nuns (Curral das Freiras). There is a parking lot here, which can fill up with tour buses, plus a restaurant and a few souvenir shops. It is possible to hike down into the valley from this viewpoint. After parking, follow the short path to a couple of viewpoints looking out at the mountains and down into the valley.

Two of us hugging at the railing, with sharp mountain ridges and the valley far below.

The first viewpoint on the trail.

Steep mountain slopes plunging into a valley, with a village of small houses and terraces on the valley floor.

The Valley of the Nuns.

For lunch, we recommend Chef Guru, an Indian restaurant. This was by far the best meal we had in Funchal — the service, the quality of the food and the beautiful location in old town Funchal made it a great experience. We parked in the public parking near the cable car station (the same as the day before). It is a brief walk to the restaurant through narrow cobblestone streets.

Our son grinning at the table inside the restaurant, with blue walls and geometric pendant lights.

In Chef Guru.

Two of us standing on the cobbled street outside, in front of old buildings with wooden shutters.

The street outside the restaurant.

After lunch, head to the airport.

A plane parked on the apron at dusk, with the lights of the hillside town behind.

Madeira airport at dusk.

Worth knowing

Returning the rental car at the Funchal airport was an extremely unpleasant experience for us. After looking over our car, the agents at the return lot told us the floor was too dirty. It had a small amount of dry mud on the floor mats, from the on-and-off rain on most of the days we spent visiting trails and forests. Our options were to drive back out of the airport to a car wash about 5 minutes away — with our whole party and all the bags — to vacuum the floor mats, or to pay a cleaning fee of about €100. Unsure whether we could make it back in time for the flight, and to cause less stress for our son, who usually gets nervous about time at the airport, we chose to pay the fee. We have rented cars in many parts of the world and had never experienced anything like this, and there was no mention of it in the contract. The rental company seemed to want to rent cars out again immediately after they come back, without spending any money on cleaning them between customers — which seemed bizarre to us, as we believed the car would be cleaned before we rented it. And if tourists have to worry about keeping a car clean, or finding a car wash with a vacuum on a mostly wet, tropical island full of muddy hikes, how are they supposed to enjoy their vacation? That last interaction left us annoyed, rather than amazed at the wonderful things we got to see. Overall, though, Madeira is a gorgeous island with stunning landscapes and life-changing views and hikes. We would not have changed anything about this trip.

The airport here is pretty new and nice, with great places to get food and souvenirs. The best part is the outdoor viewing deck, where you can watch flights land and take off. Our son especially enjoyed the deck for a long time, as our flight was delayed by a couple of hours.

A TAP Air Portugal plane at the gate at dusk, with the boarding stairs in place and the town lit up on the hillside behind.

The view of our flight from the viewing deck.