Day 1 Reykjavik
We arrived in Keflavik Airport via Toronto on a cold, windy and rainy morning in early June. The immigration and customs process was simple and took about an hour. We had to take a shuttle to the rental car company. The process was easy and we were on our way in less than 30 minutes. Since we were all hungry, we headed to a Mediterranean
restaurant in the heart of Keflavik called “Biryani”. The food was fresh and tasted great. From here we headed straight to the Blue lagoon. We had reserved our slot a few weeks ago online. Our time slot was between noon and one pm. We arrived just around noon and checked in. We brought a change of clothes and were given locker keys to store our belongings. Our package came with a towel, one silica mask and 1 drink per person. As per Icelandic rules, showering with soap is required before entering any public pools or geothermal spas. Once showered and changed we entered the stunning lagoon. The temperature of the milky blue water was perfect for the chilly (50 degrees F), rainy day. We did not mind the drizzle as the water an surrounding nature was so relaxing. The lagoon never felt crowded due to its expansive size. We were always able to find quiet secluded corners to relax in. We enjoyed an Icelandic history and story time in the lagoon as well. After spending about 2 hours in the lagoon and enjoying the sauna and cold shower several times, we were ready to head out. The check out procedure is simple as well. Soon we were on our way to our Airbnb in Reykjavik downtown.
Walking to Blue Lagoon, Iceland
Once checked in and changed into warmer clothes, we headed back into the city to find a place for dinner. Finding parking was challenging along the street. After several passes we finally found a spot. We ate at “Hradlestin” a quick service Indian place with dine-in and take away options. The food was delicious.
Sitting down for dinner at Hradlestin Indian restaurant in downtown Reykjavik
After dinner we planned on walking around near the Hallgrimskirkja church in the downtown area and check out some shops, however; our son fell asleep on the drive over due to jet lag. Hence we ended up seeing the church only from the car and went back to the Airbnb for the night.
Day 2 Golden Circle
We woke to another cloudy day. After packing the car, we headed to Braud and Co a short distance from out accommodation to pick up some pastries for breakfast. Once we headed out of the city towards Thingvellir National Park, we were caught in some massive downpours of rain. We were nervous but determined to make the most of our day. Upon arrival we headed to the visitor center. There is a paid exhibit here which we chose not to visit. Once the rain slowed to a drizzle we headed out to the viewing platform to check out the lake. From here we followed the trail all the way down the continental divide. The scenery was unique and beautiful emphasized in the cloud covered day. We kept following this trail all the way till we reached the Oxarfoss waterfall. This is a must see in this park. It has a viewing platform great for taking photos. Alternatively, you can take the walk in the continental divide and turn back once you get to the river bridge. then drive to the Oxarfoss parking area. This would save time walking around especially if the weather is uncooperative. The trails are not located in a circle an require walking back the same way you came to get to your car.
Continental divide in Thingvellir National Park
Next we headed towards Gullfoss about an hour away. As we arrived at Gullfoss, the rain picked up. we bundled up in our rain gear and headed towards the trail. Make sure you park in the lot down the road from the cafe and gift shop to walk directly to the falls and save time. following the trail to the viewing platforms gives a view of the falls from multiple angles.
Gullfoss waterfall in Iceland
Next, head to Geysir geothermal area located on the way back from Gullfoss. Park in the cafe lot across the street and walk over to the short trail to watch the Strokkur Geyser. This geyser erupts about every 8-10 minutes. If time permits, follow the trail all the way around the geothermal area to check out other interesting activity. Beware the odor of sulfur is usually present and pretty strong.
We had reservations at the Fridheimar tomato greenhouse restaurant for lunch and a horse stable visit. Here we met some gorgeous Icelandic horses and learned about the stances that make them special. We got to pet the horses and took photos with them as well. It was really special so see these working horses in their stables and experience their gentle, friendly temperaments up close. Lunch in the greenhouse was simple and exquisite. The meal could not be more fresh from the greenhouse grown tomatoes to the traditional bread made in house. This restaurant set in the greenhouse warmed with geothermal waters and plump tomatoes growing all around is a truly unique experience.
Inside the glass house growing tomatoes of Fridheimar
With full happy bellies, we left for our hotel in Hella. After some time relaxing, we picked up dinner from Lava 47 Pizza food truck.
Day 3 South Coast Waterfalls
After having breakfast at our hotel, we packed up and drove towards Seljalandsfoss. this is about 30 minutes away from Hella. This enormous waterfall can be seen from miles away as you approach it. This waterfall requires paid parking. This is one of a few waterfalls that you can walk behind. Beware the mist will have you completely drenched. We strongly recommend a rain jacket and waterproof pants for this day of trip. There are several photo spots along the trail, however the trail can be slick and slippery. Hiking boots or trail shoes with grip are recommended. After taking photos of this beauty from various angles, follow the trail to the right. This trail takes you past an open meadow with several other waterfalls and to the hidden waterfall within a canyon. Once you reach the river, you should see the canyon and a misty waterfall within. With the right gear like waterproof, grippy shoes and a rain jacket it is possible to head inside the canyon by walking on some rocks in the shallow stream. This was a surreal and gorgeous sight.
Behind the Seljalandsfoss waterfall in Iceland
Driving another 30 minutes down the road, we came to Skogafoss. This parking lot had a restroom and a cafe as well. After getting as close as possible to this waterfall while still avoiding the crowds, we decided to hike up the stairs to get a top down view of the falls. Once atop the roughly 350 stairs, you reach a platform with unbelievable views of the waterfall from the top, the river and the town below. Next we continued past the gate to the trail called “waterfall way”. This trail follows the river for several miles and has many waterfalls along it. We walked this trail for another mile and saw another 3 beautiful waterfalls in the river.
Stairways on the side of the hill by the Skogafoss waterfall in Iceland
Next, we drove 5 minutes to Kvernufoss. Parking is a bit tricky at this spot. We found the parking machine not working when we arrived. However there were signs that said we must pay for parking. We went inside the Skogar Museum to buy a parking permit. The hike to this waterfall is gentle and short. This waterfall is right out of a fairy tale. Its location within a gorgeous, lush, green canyon with the river running next to it is simple spectacular. This is another waterfall you can walk behind. It is not as crowded as the previous two sites and drones are allowed.
Kvernufoss waterfall in Iceland
We then drove to the town of Vik to have some lunch and buy groceries to make dinner. This picturesque town is located about 30 min away. We had lunch at the Soup Company. They have at least 2 Vegetatian options in soup along with fresh warm bread. Reynisfjara beach is about 10 min away. This black sand beach with its unique rock formations and the basalt columns is one of a kind. Beware of dangerous sneaker waves and high winds. When we arrived it was incredibly windy. We checked out the basalt column cave. climbed the basalt columns as high as we could and took pictures with the rock formations. Once we had enough sand in our eyes and mouth, we decided to head out.
Sitting on basalt columns of hill face at Reynisfjara beach
The drive to Fjadrarglufur canyon took almost an hour. this canyon is simply magical with its lush interior and river flowing through. There is even a waterfall from the last viewpoint. The trail into the canyon is steep and about 2 miles there and back. Restrooms were available in the parking lot. When we arrived around 5 pm, the direction of light was not ideal for pictures facing into the canyon. Our drone had trouble flying as well due to high winds. However just being in this place and witnessing it was worth it.
Fjadrarglufur canyon view
Our accommodation was a 15 minute drive from here. We stayed in a a beautiful antique farm house with horses and sheep in the meadows.
Day 4 Glaciers
We left our accommodation and headed for the Troll Expeditions office for our glacier walk. Once we reached the office, we were outfitted for our glacier walk with crampons, harness and hard hats. If wearing a beanie underneath the hardhat, we recommend one without a pom pom. Dress warm but in layers as you can get warm walking and climbing up the glacier. A camera is essential. Backpacks are allowed. Bring a water bottle as well to fill up fresh, icy, glacial water. Our guided tour was educational and engaging. We did the 2 hour walk and thought it was just right for us (1 grandparent , 2 adults and a 10 year old child). Longer hikes are available as well.
Climbing the glacier with the family
We stopped for lunch at a small cafe 5 minutes down the road as we all needed some nourishment. We enjoyed some soup, sandwiches and warm bread along with some baked goods.
Next, we hiked Mulagljufur canyon. This is easily one of the most scenic places in Iceland. From this hike you can see magical canyon, several tall waterfalls, several glaciers, mountains, and the ocean in the distance. This hike is strenuous and can get pretty warm in the summer as there is no shade the entire way. The views of the waterfall and canyon are unforgettable.
After this hike we drove about 15 minutes to the Jokulsarlon glacier lagoon for the boat tour. Parking can be a bit challenging to find as it can get pretty crowded. There is a cafe and restrooms available on site. We bought tickets in advance for this 20 minute boat tour in the glacier lagoon. The boat takes you close to many icebergs floating in the lagoon with a view of numerous glaciers and mountains in the distance. There is an easy trail along the lagoon for beautiful photos.
Standing on the side of Jokulsarlon glacier lagoon.
Drive back over the bridge for the parking lot for Diamond beach. There is a parking lot on either side of the road. We recommend going to the side which has more ice floating nearby. We saw plenty of ice flatting in the waves and washed up on the beach. the contrast of the black sand beach, icebergs and ocean makes for unique photo ops. From here we drove about an hour to the town of Hofn for the night.
Chunks of ice from Jokulsarlon glacier and icebergs in the sea and on the beach called Diamond beach.
Day 5 East Fjords
We ate breakfast in our Airbnb. Once packed and checked out, we headed to the Netto grocery store to pick up some essentials for cooking dinner. Next, we headed to Stokksnes (about 25 min away). The Stokksnes peninsula is a beautiful place to admire the majestic mountain Vestrahorn. The area requires a ticketed entry which includes parking along the best photo spots and entrance to the viking village used in various movies and shows like The Witcher. We enjoyed walking around and looking at the different types of houses and taking pictures around the photo spots with a back ground of the sand dunes and Vestrahorn.
Stokksnes from the second photo spot.
From here we drove on towards the east fjords following the coast. The road hugged the ocean and crossed mountains. The drive to Hengifoss trailhead took about 3 hours with no shortage of stunning, ever-changing views on all sides. We saw more waterfalls than we can count along the mountainsides on this drive.
Hengifoss is a moderately strenuous hike that is just over 3 miles long. This waterfall has unique red striations around the cliffside. Following the trail, we passed two additional waterfalls and could see the main attraction in the distance. The parking lot is small, hence sometimes requires waiting for a spot to become available. Restrooms are available in the parking lot as well. We did not pass many people on the hike and were able to enjoy it by ourselves for a while. We enjoyed some local ice creams and donuts at a little food truck near the trailhead.
Walking on boardwalk towards Hengifoss waterfall.
After this magical hike, we continued to drive towards Seydisfjordor, our home for the night. The drive to this town located right on the fjords, was out of a fairytale. The 1 hour drive took us over a high mountain pass, lakes covered in icebergs, mountainsides with countless waterfalls and colorful houses set right on the fjord. Our accommodation was a charming two story house with a gorgeous view of the fjord, mountains and waterfalls. We cooked dinner here. Later we headed out for a walk to enjoy beautiful wildflowers growing right by the riverside. We checked out the rainbow road leading to a quaint church as well. The air felt clean, calm and chilly as we walked back to our little house. This town was one of our favorites in Iceland.
Family sitting and taking in the scenary in Seydisfjordor.
Day 6 Studlagil Canyon, Dettifoss
After breakfast, we headed out of Seydisfjordur enjoying the magical drive up the mountain pass towards route 1 again. Our destination was Studlagil Canyon. The drive took about 90 minutes. This canyon is made from a deep azure river cutting across a black basalt mountainside. The basalt breaks off into amazing, geometrically near perfect shapes creating a unique steplike canyon. There is a viewpoint which does not require any hiking on the opposite side of the canyon. We opted for the hike so we could get closer to the river and see the canyon from many angles. When arriving at the trail head, we recommend parking at the second parking lot past the unpaved section of the road. Our vehicle was a 4 wheel drive Kia Sportage and we had no issues. this reduces the hike by about a mile or so. The hike is about 2.5 miles roundtrip from the second parking lot. The trail is pretty flat, but has no shade and can get hot in the summertime. We recommend dressing in layers. It is possible to get from the top of the canyon to the river simply by scrambling down the rocks. Be aware that several routes exist but some are more slippery than others. There is a rope in one section to make the climb down and back up a bit easier. We were lucky enough to have the riverside almost to ourselves. There are no restrooms near the trailhead or anywhere nearby. There is a food truck that sells ice cream and snacks near the parking lot.
River running through the basalt column sided Studlagil canyon.
From here we headed towards Dettifoss. The drive took about 90 minutes. It was hard to find a restroom on this drive as there are no towns or villages on the route. The road carved through some mountains as first and got flatter as we neared Dettifoss. We chose to visit this waterfall from the west side. the road was paved the entire way and so was the parking lot. Restrooms were available here. The eastern side has different views and you can get closer to the water, however the road to get there is unpaved. The trail to get the waterfall was about 1 mile roundtrip, which includes stopping by a few viewpoints. the sheer volume of water flowing through this waterfall is hard to put into words. It is definitely an impressive site. There is a trail to Selfoss on the way back. We were short on time and decided to enjoy it from a distance.
Dettifoss from the viewing deck on the side.
From here we headed to Geosea geothermal hot baths in Husavik. We chose Geosea as it is newly built and we were spending the night in Husavik. The drive took us about an hour. These baths were simply exquisite with the view of snowcapped mountains and the gorgeous ocean right under us. Geosea is much smaller than Blue lagoon and much less crowded. The entrance price does not include a towel, hence bring one along possible. Children are allowed at this hot bath just like Blue lagoon. We thoroughly enjoyed our experience here especially the sauna and cold shower. If staying around the Myvatn area, try Myvatn hot baths.
We cooked dinner in our Husavik apartment and enjoyed a relaxing evening.
Day 7 Whale Watching
We had booked a whale watching tour with North Sailing in Husavik on their silent, electric boat. this tour started at 10 am. This location was only a couple minutes away from our apartment. We arrived ate the North Sailing office after finding a parking spot across the street. Once checked in, we walked down the stairs to the jacket room. We were provided a warm suit which we put on top of our clothes. It can get pretty windy and cold out at sea even in the summer. We were thankful for these suits once we were on the open ocean. Restrooms are available in this area as well. The boat is a beautiful ship repurposed as a tour boat. There is not a lot of seating and storage on the ship. arrive early to get a seat, at least for the beginning of the tour. We were lucky enough to see about 5 to 6 different whales. We definitely felt that the electric vessel made it easier for the whales to approach and there was not sounds or smells to bother the creatures. The snowcapped mountains lining the fjord, deep blue waters, unique vessel and chilly sea breeze made this an unforgettable whale watching experience.
Fjord in Husavik considered the best whale watching location in the world.
From the harbor, we drove under 5 minutes to reach the Lemon/grill 66 fast food restaurant. This was located within a gas station. The vegetable panini from Lemon and the veggie burger and fries from grill 66 were good. We enjoyed some soft serve ice cream here with toppings and highly recommend it.
From here we drove about 35 minutes to Godafoss. There are trails on both sides of this waterfall. There is a bridge a bit down river to cross over to the other side. If time permits, it is easy to visit Godafoss from both sides for different views. We visited the side with the larger overlook closer to the side we parked on. The walk to the falls is short and easy. The falls are simply magnificent with crescent shape and teal colored river. We were here on a rather cloudy day, hence all the colors appeared deeper and more saturated. This waterfall can get busy and it might take some extra time to get pictures around other tourists. We visited the gift shop here as well. There is a cafe and restrooms across the road.
Majestic beauty of Godafoss waterfall.
From Godafoss we headed to Akureyri about 30 minutes away. We parked in a lot near the center of town. From here we explored some souvenir and local shops along main street. Iceland is pretty expensive for shopping local goods such as the handmade lopapessa sweaters and Icelandic wool products (upwards of a couple hundred dollars). We ended up liking the local brand Icewear available at any retailer including the gift shops near several main attractions. They had some sweaters, hats and gloves with neat Icelandic patterns.
We explored the Thai restaurant Krua Siam for dinner and were glad we did. The food was authentic and tasted great. From here we headed over to find our apartment for the night.
Day 8 Horse Riding
From Akureyri, we headed 30 minutes north up the fjord to Polar Hestar for our horse riding tour. This stable has a variety of tours to suit any length of time or experience with horses. Riding Icelandic horses was something we wanted to try on this trip. No one in our party had been on a horse in a very long time. It was my 10 year old son’s first time on horse. Our tour guide at Polar Hestar, the stunning scenery, along with the horses we rode gave us a simply unforgettable experience. Our ride took us along the side of the road and then up a steep horse trail to the top of a hill for a gorgeous view of the mountains and the fjord. We highly recommend this stable if you are looking to ride Icelandic horses near Akureyri. They even provide tea, coffee and homemade cakes after the ride.
Polar Hestar horse farm and riding tour.
After our ride, we made it back to Akureyri for lunch. We tried Indian Curry House and were not disappointed. The food was fresh, authentic and delicious.
After our meal, we headed to the Reykjafoss trailhead. To get to the parking for the trailhead, follow directions for Reykjafoss car park in google maps. The directions for just “Reykjafoss” took us to an open field with no parking and no trail. The drive takes about 1.2 hours. This is a beautiful short trail under 2 miles. The trail took us to a front view of the multi layered waterfall and then up a hill and closer to the edge of the water. Around the back of this waterfall is a small natural hot spring. It is big enough for maybe 5-6 people. Some people were enjoying a relaxing soak here. Since it is not maintained, it is free but there are no changing rooms nearby. This trail is much quieter than some of the other more popular waterfalls and must do if you are in the area.
Cascading waterfalls of Reykjafoss.
From here we drove to the popular Vidimyrarkirkja turf church. it was about 10 minutes away. This is a popular instagram spot. The turf church is in an open field with a beautiful gate and building. The church itself is rather small and would be hard to enjoy if there is a big crowd around (tour bus). There is a fee to enter past the gate of the garden. The fee was inexpensive, but some of us decided to wait in the car park. My son was interested in visiting the inside so he ended up going in with his dad. There are restrooms available in the parking lot.
Vidimyrarkirkja turf church.
From here we drove to our cabin in Bimsloo about 40 minutes away. We cooked dinner and enjoyed a walk around the property while enjoying views of green fields with grazing horses and sheep.
Day 9 Kirkjufell
After breakfast, we headed towards Kolugljufur canyon. This area has a beautiful waterfall and some trails that follow the top of a gorgeous green canyon. It can get crowded if a tourbus happens to come by (as it did when we were here) but it leaves pretty quickly. We walked all the way down to the rocks near the waters edge and across the bridge along the canyon wall.
Kolugljufur canyon and river.
From here we drove over to the Eirikstadir Viking Longhouse museum. The drive took about an hour and 40 minutes. If planning a trip to this Viking longhouse, follow route 1 and take route 68 towards Bordeyri. Then route 59 and then route 586 to the Viking longhouse. Do not attempt to take route 586 directly from route 1 as this road is not drivable from that direction even with a 4X4 vehicle. There are large rocks and a steep uphill climb. Once we reached the museum, we parked the car and bought tickets to go inside. The museum staff dress in period costume and tell Icelandic sagas by the fire inside the longhouse. We enjoyed hearing the sagas while seeing the ancient artifacts (or replicas) by the native Icelanders.
Eirikstadir Viking Longhouse museum.
From here we headed towards Grundarfjordur. The drive took about an hour and 40 minutes. We drove straight to Kirkjufellsfoss parking lot. This is a paid parking lot. This area is touristy but for a reason. The view of the waterfall in front of the Kirkjufell mountain is stunning. The walk to the viewpoint is surrounded by green fields and mountains on one side and the fjord harbor on the other side. We spent some time here taking phots and soaking in the scenery. It was time for dinner. We chose to try Kaffi 59, a causal pizza place. We enjoyed the food and the small town feel of this restaurant.
Kirkjufell mountain, waterfall and river.
Our hotel was located close to the harbor and we enjoyed a chilly sea breeze in our room.
Day 10 Snaefellsnes Peninsula
We enjoyed a great breakfast at our hotel before departing. We left early as we had a lot of stops to make on this day to see all the spots along the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. We stopped by the Grundarfjordur waterfall first thing, however the gate to begin the trail was locked. We enjoyed it from afar. Our next stop was Svodufoss about 30 minutes away. The drive goes past the Kirkjufell mountain allowing us to view it from various angles. Svodufoss is an easy 1 mile roundtrip trail which took us close to the waterfall. The geometric basalt columns surrounding the waterfall gives it a unique look. We were the only ones here when we arrived and saw only one car arrive on our way out.
Looking at Svodufoss waterfall.
Our next stop, Skardisvik beach was 20 minutes away. This kelp covered beach is one of the few white sand beaches in Iceland. We enjoyed walking along the sandy beach, looking out at the ocean and checking out the various rock formations present here.
Skardisvik beach is a rare white/biege sand beach in Iceland.
From here we drove another 20 minutes to the Londrangar viewpoint. This area has a trailhead and a viewpoint in slightly different locations. We had to make sure the directions we entered were for the correct location. The viewpoint trail takes you to various lookout areas. We saw a lots of sea birds flying around, heading back to their nests. The sheer, dark cliffs with the ocean waves crashing into them are worth a visit.
Londrangar viewpoint is excellent for sea bird watching along sea caves and walls.
From here we drove 10 minutes to the village of Arnarstapi. This was one of our favorites stops on this drive. We parked near a lookout point around the center of this small village. The emerald green seaside cliffs with picturesque houses looks right out of a fairy tale. After the viewpoint we headed to follow the seaside trail from Stapi to Hellnar. This easy trail is well marked from the viewpoint. We walked along the cliff, across a lake with seabirds flying around with mountains and glaciers in the background. The trail goes past a sea arch and some rock formations as well. Here we turned around and followed the same path back as we were short on time. However, if time permits we would have definitely walked this entire trail as the area was so breathtaking.
Along the Arnarstapi coastal walk.
Our next stop was Bjarnarfoss, another 20 minutes away. This tall cascading waterfall flows from an emerald green cliff and has basalt columns along the bottom. It is clearly visible from the parking lot. We wanted to get a closer look, so we started walking the trail. The walk till the bridge is easily doable. Past the bridge, walking up the trail is steep, extremely muddy and slick. We tried to get as close as we could without slipping and turned around once it got too muddy.
Bjarnarfoss is a majestic waterfall.
Ytri Tunga is an area of a beach where seals are often found resting or hunting. This spot is about 15 minutes away. The parking is paid. We walked along the pebbly beach, for a long time, saw some tide pools and reached the large boulders to climb over. The only seals we spotted were pretty far away. We walked here for a long while but didn’t find anything too interesting. In the end we felt this spot was not nearly as rewarding as the rest of the places we had visited. If short on time, this is the spot we would recommend skipping.
Ytri Tunga is interesting for Seal spotting.
After the last stop on the Snaefellsness peninsula we drove on for about 1.8 hours to Hraunfossar. We stopped at a gas station in Borgarnes for lunch. Hraunfossar is not just one waterfall but an entire cliffside full of waterfalls. These fall directly into a fat moving turquoise colored river. The surrounding rock formations are carved out by the fast moving waters of this river. The easy trail from the parking lot led us to several viewing platforms and a bridge as well. We got great views from may directions of this magnificent area. The first viewpoint was the best one to take in the entire cliff with waterfalls. There was a cafe across the street.
Hraunfossar’s cascading wall of wide waterfalls.
From here we drove to Serranos Mexican restaurant in Keflavik for dinner about 2 hours away. This was a fast food place with many different options. After dinner we headed to out Airbnb in Keflavik.
ALTERNATELY: Skip one or two of the places on the Snaefellsness peninsula and visit the Sky Lagoon in Reykjavik (if you are not traveling with kids under 12). We had to skip this as they do not allow children under the age of 12.
Day 11 Airport
We headed to the airport and returned our rental car. From here, we walked over to the airport which was faster than waiting for the shuttle. At the airport, the check-in lines were long. After checking in we went through security and grabbed breakfast and boarded our flight back home.